As dermatologists, we regularly hear questions from sufferers about components in magnificence and skincare merchandise. Not too long ago, hyaluronic acid (HA) has been hitting the cabinets in a wide range of merchandise, from serums and moisturizers to sheet masks, night time lotions, and lip merchandise. So what’s HA? What advantages does it supply? And what are the best methods of utilizing this ingredient?

What’s hyaluronic acid?

HA is a humectant — a substance that retains moisture — and it’s able to binding over one thousand instances its weight in water. This substance is of course discovered in lots of areas of the human physique, together with the pores and skin, eyes, and synovial fluid of the joints. HA utilized in magnificence and skincare merchandise is primarily made by micro organism in a lab through a course of known as biofermentation.

As we age, the manufacturing of key substances within the pores and skin, together with hyaluronic acid (together with collagen and elastin) decreases. In consequence, our pores and skin loses quantity, hydration, and plumpness.

Lotions, potions, and injectable HA

Many skincare merchandise containing HA declare to extend hydration inside the pores and skin. However is that this true? The reply requires a better have a look at the kind of HA within the product. HA is available in completely different molecular sizes. Bigger HA molecules, regardless of being one of the best at binding water and providing hydration, can’t penetrate into the pores and skin. When utilized topically (to the pores and skin), these molecules sit on prime of the pores and skin, providing hydration solely on the very floor. Smaller HA molecules, which bind much less water than bigger HA molecules, can penetrate deeper into the pores and skin (although solely into the dermis, the topmost layer of pores and skin). For max floor hydration, search for a product that incorporates HA molecules in a wide range of sizes.

HA can also be utilized in dermal fillers, a lot of that are composed of HA in an injectable gel type. HA fillers add quantity by bodily filling the realm the place they’re positioned, in addition to by drawing water to boost the filling impact. HA fillers can be utilized to handle a mess of beauty issues, together with lifting the cheeks, softening deeper folds and creases across the mouth and chin, bettering the look of sunken, darkish, undereye circles, hydrating and enhancing the lips, and rejuvenating the fingers and earlobes.

HA hope or hype?

So is topical HA well worth the hype? First, let’s set up that topical HA won’t ever be as efficient as an injectable HA filler for changing misplaced quantity, although some topical HA merchandise are misleadingly marketed as topical “fillers.” Topical HA is a superb moisturizer. Nevertheless, if the purpose is to enhance quantity loss and laxity of the pores and skin that naturally happens with growing older, injectable HA, fairly than topical HA, is the popular remedy methodology.

Topical HA has many constructive attributes: it’s usually nicely tolerated; it doesn’t steadily trigger allergic reactions or irritate delicate pores and skin; and it’s secure to make use of on the pores and skin throughout being pregnant and whereas breastfeeding.

For people with dry pores and skin, or for many who crave a extra dewy, moisturized really feel to their pores and skin through the cooler months, a serum or moisturizer containing HA is usually a nice alternative. However remember the fact that topical HA will present hydration on a floor degree, not deep inside the pores and skin.