There’s a sure charming story about Grand Seiko that stored springing into my head on my current whirlwind tour of the model’s manufacturing websites throughout Japan. In fact, I invite you to learn that story too, and maybe prematurely of this interview with Grand Seiko CEO Akio Naito. In any case, this anecdote didn’t make it into the watchmaking story so I’ll embody it right here. The brief of it’s this: Grand Seiko displays are legendary for being packed to overflowing with info – maybe so dense that one would possibly pretty name the proceedings dry. It doesn’t matter what although, one won’t ever really feel one’s eyelids getting heavier as a result of the watches are so invigorating. As with all such acquired knowledge and jokes, there may be one thing to it, though Grand Seiko is hardly alone in organising inflexible (dare we are saying mechanical even) press briefings.

So how does an interview with the highest brass at Grand Seiko go? Effectively, that is our second full encounter with Naito, and he stays charmingly candid about his model and his position. In a number of phrases, it leaned closely into info overload with out ever making us really feel the decision of the Sandman. In fact, Naito’s workplace was nothing if not meticulous, having gotten our questions prematurely, they acquired the solutions typed out, and Naito handed it to us on the interview itself, which was in particular person, on the Seiko Home in Ginza. This was a stunning transfer as press workplaces sometimes simply take a look at the questions and maybe veto some of them, which isn’t an enormous deal as a result of we will ask no matter we would like in particular person anyway. There was no vetoing of any questions right here, and the whole lot was answered correctly and absolutely. You may be much more shocked, pricey reader, to be taught that Naito nonetheless availed himself to us for the total size of the promised in-person assembly. Fortunately, we did have questions that we had not submitted to the press workplace…

If you recognize something in any respect about Grand Seiko, it’s more likely to be concerning the second half of its identify, and the beneficial comparisons the model’s watches have earned, versus some of essentially the most well-known names in Swiss watchmaking. Having simply witnessed the making of Grand Seiko watches at Suwa and Morioka, in addition to proper right here at Ginza Home, it was apparent that these little bits of info had been however mere morsels. One factor that was not a morsel is Grand Seiko’s steadfaast – assiduous even – have to appropriate the file when the press will get a bit of carried away with these beneficial comparisons. When, in passing, we requested about Grand Seiko’s considerably distinctive place, with exceptionally completed instances which can be additionally very strong, Naito went out of his approach to set us straight there. He famous, fairly rightly, that there are a variety of manufacturers doing one thing related, and maybe the deeper level right here is that such comparisons are pointless. For extra on this, and the connection between Seiko and Grand Seiko, in addition to Seiko Epson, see the aforementioned manufacture story in Time Stamps. For now, it’s time to hear straight from Naito.

Congratulations on the Tentagraph SLGC001! We surprise why Grand Seiko waited so lengthy to create purely mechanical issues?

I’m conscious that followers had been ready for a Grand Seiko mechanical chronograph (for a very long time) however ever since its beginning, Grand Seiko has pursued creating the final word watch with its core values being accuracy, legibility, magnificence, and ease of use.

In 2009, we launched Caliber 9S85, which was the primary (high-beat) motion in virtually 40 years. Since then, there have been fixed requests for a high-beat Grand Seiko mechanical chronograph, however in creating it we wished to realize a regular of precision required of Grand Seiko, and on the similar time, (an influence reserve of) three days.

In 2020, Caliber 9SA5 was efficiently produced, and the efficiency of a (high-beat) motion with 80 hours (of) energy reserve was achieved. The circumstances of producing a Grand Seiko high-beat chronograph had been now set. With a growth interval of two years, we had been capable of create the Tentagraph.

With the Tentagraph, we set a brand new Grand Seiko normal for chronographs. Like all Grand Seiko mechanical actions, the Tentagraph is assessed in six positions and three temperatures over 17 days, however with an extra three days of testing during which its accuracy is assessed in three positions whereas the chronograph is in operation. With this new normal, we had been capable of introduce the (high-beat) chronograph with the longest energy reserve within the trade at present, nonetheless preserving the precision that Grand Seiko is famend for.

Following up on this, ought to we anticipate to see extra issues from Grand Seiko? Since accuracy is of paramount concern for Grand Seiko, is that one thing you’ll carry to any new watch?

Whereas it isn’t our intention to deal with issues sooner or later, we purpose to create distinctive watches that transcend our creativeness. We’ll think about different issues so long as it’s in step with Grand Seiko’s core values of excessive accuracy, magnificence, sturdiness and ease of use. For Kodo, we didn’t create the look ahead to the sake of making a patented complication; (as a substitute) it was a end result of pursuing high-precision watchmaking.

Final 12 months, we established the Atelier Ginza (positioned at Ginza Home). The new studio goals to create really distinctive and progressive timepieces of the best order. At Atelier Ginza, some of the best designers, craftsmen, and watchmakers work collectively to create, assemble, and alter timepieces that spotlight their creativity and experience, all of which is underpinned by conventional Japanese aesthetics.

We’ll fastidiously think about future developments primarily based on our core values. Please stay up for it.

Whereas editors and journalists might obsess about issues, what do you discover your clients asking for in a watch, that you haven’t but made?

All of our watches are designed and produced fastidiously via the collaborative efforts of our highest designers, planners, watchmakers and producers in pursuit of greater ranges of accuracy, legibility, magnificence, sturdiness and ease of use. On the similar time, our clients’ voices are additionally essential to Grand Seiko. (For instance) I hear extra calls for for slimmer watches. We do have slim watches in our line-up that obtain the sturdiness and reliability which can be required for Grand Seiko, such because the manual-winding Spring Drive creations.

We have now additionally launched Grand Seiko creations that don’t (adhere) to the standard “males’s” or “girl’s” watch sizes. For instance, we launched a number of creations from Grand Seiko with a 34mm case dimension, together with a watch with the celebrated snowflake sample in blue.

We provide a large assortment from our Masterpiece, Evolution 9, Magnificence, Heritage, and Sport assortment. Every watch has a singular story, and if we talk them successfully, I’m assured that watch followers from world wide will discover a watch that resonates with them.

Transferring on to model positioning and aesthetics, we are sometimes confronted by collectors on the query of distinctive dials at Grand Seiko and at Seiko, within the Presage assortment. Please clarify how Grand Seiko dials are completely different?

Grand Seiko dials are completely different in two methods. First, the dials are designed and primarily based on Grand Seiko Type. Grand Seiko established its grammar of design, the Grand Seiko Type in 1967 with the 44GS. Since then, this design precept has guided the design of each Grand Seiko creation, not solely in case design however dial design as nicely. Grand Seiko’s dials catch even the slightest gentle from each angle to boost legibility and create the glint of high quality that Grand Seiko is famend for.

Second, Grand Seiko dials are impressed by (the pure environment of) Grand Seiko studios. The dial patterns and colors embody the model philosophy: “The Nature of Time.”

For one thing distinctive such because the SBGZ009, it’s simple to see and really feel the Grand Seiko distinction. How vital is that this textural strategy, the place the dial ornament is matched by one thing the wearer can really feel?

The watch is exclusive in that it absolutely expresses the model philosophy in each element, not solely on the dial but in addition on the case engraving. This particular creation is impressed by the white birch forest in (the deepest) winter, and expresses delicate Japanese sensibility and craftsmanship via engraving by a grasp craftsman. We’ll proceed to take the same strategy to seize our model philosophy via particular creations like SBGZ009.

Transferring to Watches and Wonders Geneva, how did you discover the expertise this 12 months, now that extra individuals can go to? Has your notion of the truthful advanced or modified in any respect?

I used to be comfortable to satisfy many journalists and followers from Asia. Particularly this 12 months, we felt persons are coming again to hitch actual occasions, which is a good signal, as I really feel strongly concerning the significance of holding actual occasions and assembly individuals face- to-face.

With the newly established Public days (the Geneva truthful has a number of days which can be open to most people – Ed), extra individuals have been capable of go to. We had the chance to speak straight with shoppers and followers, and have them perceive our model extra. We felt the necessity to attraction to a wider viewers and the truthful inspired us to take action.

Whereas the truthful continues to evolve, my view of the truthful continues to be a constructive one. (It’s the) best showcase to introduce our novelties along with many of the distinguished manufacturers from the trade. (It’s a) distinguished platform the place members of the trade can get collectively. By collaborating within the truthful, our recognition has additional elevated as a real luxurious watch model with distinctive qualities, which I consider advantages the posh watch trade.

We spoke beforehand concerning the unimaginable stage of reputation of Grand Seiko outdoors Japan. How is the model now dealing with this demand, and the way do you handle expectations in phrases of collectors who might not be capable of get the watch they need?

Grand Seiko is experiencing important development in demand worldwide. The steadiness of responding to excessive demand whereas constantly providing high-quality merchandise is a problem for any watchmaker, however we are going to by no means make any compromise within the high quality of our watches and do our greatest to reply to the calls for.

In 2020, we inaugurated the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi (GSSS) in Iwate Prefecture which you simply visited, devoted to creating Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches. It’s the place we additionally prepare and develop the subsequent technology watchmakers. We have now additionally put in new (parts) manufacturing tools to extend manufacturing.

This text first appeared on WOW’s Legacy 2024 subject. 

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